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2007.08.04-11 - North to Alaska |
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To celebrate our first completed trip around the big yellow
thing as a couple, we went up to Alaska on a cruise on
Holland America's Oosterdam. It was also the last
'big' trip we'd be able to take for a while, since BabyJ is
less than 90 days away... so we made it a larger trip than
it might otherwise have been. We had a fantastic time,
and we're already kicking around ideas about going back!
:-)The trip was a "round trip" out of Seattle. We
drove down out of the hills, and stopped for a bit at the
Issaquah Farmer's Market, to pick up some flowers for
church. Then, we continued to Seattle, and made our
way to the Cruise Ship Terminal, which is fairly close to
Safeco Field.
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We made our way to the ticket desk, where they took our
picture. After a short wait, word came that we could
board the ship. It all went very smoothly.The
terminal can handle two ships at a time, and both moorings
were in use. The "Sapphire Princess" was next to the
Oosterdam... it would follow us pretty much the whole trip.
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Once on board, we went up to the observation deck.
Seafair was in full swing, and the air show was going on...
while everyone was waiting on the Blue Angels, the Patriots
actually flew closer to our ship.We watched them loading
supplies and baggage, and talked with folks on the deck with
us.
We weren't disappointed: the Blue Angels made a good
showing
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We then made our way to the Life Boat Drill. Fun
Stuff... but I suppose its better to be safe than sorry.
After scrambling with everyone else to get back to the room
and stow the vests, we were back up on top for the
departure.
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We enjoyed the scenery of the Puget Sound on the way out,
then went to the "Welcome Aboard" show.
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After the show, the Sunset was SPECTACULAR. We were
heading into a cloudy and overcast week, so we really
enjoyed the view!
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The next morning, we were at sea... not much to see but open
water. We walked around the ship, and checked things
out.
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The ocean was fairly calm... 1.5 to 4 feet. Not too
bad at all, especially for a ship 975 feet long!
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It was pretty windy, so we didn't spend too long on the deck
- which was very clean and very well maintained.We stayed
a good distance from shore, but occasionally, a island or
two would get close enough to be closer than "the horizon"
It cleared up as the day went on, which was pretty nice.
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The sunset, once again, was awesome!The Princess ship
made for a nice scene as the evening faded into night.
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Morning saw us in much calmer waters, and not too long after
breakfast, we docked in Juneau.
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Juneau was overcast and foggy, with a light drizzle... sort
of normal for the most northern state capital in the USA.
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This unassuming blue building is where Alaska Airlines got
its start. It served as the hanger for float planes...
something the Alaska Airlines doesn't have anymore.We
stopped by a hatchery during our tour of the city... it was
a lot like hatcheries back home, so we weren't as excited as
the folks from Georgia were. :-)
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From there, we went to the Glacial Gardens. When the
owner of a nursery was clearing his property after a
landslide, he rented an excavator that was pretty new, and
he was warned it would cost a lot if it got damaged.
About an hour before he was going to load the rig on a flat
bed and return it, he moved one last rock. The rock
slid, and a tree it supported fell onto the radiator cover,
causing several thousand dollars worth of damage. He
wasn't too happy, so he grabbed the tree with the excavator,
and plunged it into the ground. The resulting stump
made for an interesting platform to plant flowers on... and
the rest is history.They had some AMAZING displays of
flowers, and a great trail through the landscape to an
overlook... it was a fun visit.
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The jewel of Juneau, though, is the Mendenhall Glacier,
which is about 15 miles out of town.A river of ice, the
glacier flows into a lake that formed as the glacier has
retreated, which it has been doing for about 250 years,
since the end of the "mini ice age", which ended in the
1800's.
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In the Afternoon, we got back on board, and we sailed
off into the night.
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The next morning, we were closing on Yakutat Bay, which is
still home to several tribes of Tlingit Indians.It is
also home to the longest tidewater glacier in Alaska:
Hubbard Glacier.
Shortly after entering the bay, a Native Pilot boat
boarded a guide, and quite a few of the passengers made
their way onto the bow of the ship, which is normally closed
to visitors, because of the winds experienced there.
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We spent some time on the bow, then went on to several other
decks, trying to find a place that was warm, and had a good
view of the glacier.We ended up going to our own veranda
balcony... it had good protection from the wind, and had as
good a view as we could get anywhere else...
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The blue ice of the glacier is very stunning.The Face of
the glacier is some 500 feet above the water, and the wall
extends another 600 feet or so below the surface.
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Several times while we were there, large portions of the
face calved off.
You could hear cracking ice reverberating in what the
local natives call "White Thunder"... it was a very accurate
description.
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The glacier was pretty spectacular!
We stayed about 1-2 miles from the face for a couple of
hours... then we headed off for our next destination.
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The weather was very nice, and after we ate, we went to the
show, which was "Drew and Angela", a magician duo who
apparently are husband and wife. They did a great job.
When we got back to our room, we enjoyed the towel elephant,
and especially the sunset.
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It was an awesome way to end the day, that's for sure!
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The next morning saw us pulling into Sitka, the ancestral
home of the Tlingit Indian Nation, and the capital of the
region when it was under Russian control.The city doesn't
have a deep enough moorage for the ships, so they had to use
a life boats as tenders to get us ashore.
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It was an interesting ride. The bay was quite calm, so
there were no "issues"... :)
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Our guide took us to the Sitka National Historic Park, which
surrounds a Tlingit fort built to defend against a Russian
incursion after they had been run off by Tlingit fighters
about a year earlier.
The Russians used conquered Aleut Indians to tow their
ships into the bay in order to use them to fight, as the
winds were blowing the wrong direction. One of these
boats managed to hit the Tlingit ammunition dump, which left
them unable to defend the city.
The park now houses totems in an effort to preserve them,
and the histories they depict. It was a very
interesting stop.
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From there, we went to a show put on by a Russian Dance
Troup... only they weren't Russian, and they were all women.
:-)They put on a great demonstration of the style and the
history of Russian influence in the region.
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St Archangel Michael Cathedral, a Russian Orthodox Church
sits prominently near the center of the city.Originally
built in 1844, it suffered a devastating fire in 1966, which
burned a considerable portion of the city. Most of the
icons were safely removed, and after the Cathedral was
rebuilt - using the original plans - they were returned to
their original locations.
It was cool to see the bell, one of the original bells
used in the church steeple, with Russian writing on it.
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This is Castle Hill. When the Russians came here, the
Tlingit tribal capital long houses were here on this hill.
The Russians, after they retook the city after being chased
away by the Tlingits, built the home of the Russian Governor
this hill, which gave the hill its name. It was on
this hill that the formal hand-off of territorial ownership
happened after the USA purchased the state for $7.2 million.
From the hill, you can see the statue of "Skagway Bill", a
Sitka native who was among the most famous of the early
Klondike pioneers.
You can also see the Russian blockhouse, built to keep
the Tlingits at bay after the Russians retook the town.
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After visiting with the Park Ranger for a while, we walked
down the hill, and back to the landing for a ride back to
the boat.Its amazing how large the ship is when you're
outside of it...
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Once everyone was aboard, they started putting the boats
away.
They hoisted them up very easily... it was nice to see
the process worked, in case we'd ever need them for real!
Shortly after that we left for Ketchikan
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While we were eating, I heard a large slap, like something
had fallen into the water. I looked out the window,
and saw a big area that had been disturbed. While I
was trying to figure out what had done that, a whale
breached, and when it hit, it made the same sound I'd heard.
I got my camera ready, and hoped it would happen again.
It was an awesome sight! Its hard to imagine the
power it would take to get so much weight that high out of
the water!
We kept watching for more, but we didn't see anything,
except a pair of flukes... seems a mom and her calf were
passing us by..
We went to the show, a ventriloquist.
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The sunset after the show was SPECTACULAR!The water color
held an incredible contrast to the sky...
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Even after the sun had set, the clouds held on to their
coloring for quite some time... we were quite a ways up, and
it stayed light until well after 11.
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Morning found us arriving at Ketchikan... my favorite town
in Alaska.I'd NEVER been to Ketchikan where it wasn't
overcast... and nearly every day I've spent there its rained
at least a PORTION of the day.
But on this day, it was wall to wall blue sky!
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Shortly after docking, we strolled ashore, beating the
crowds off the ship.
We walked out to Creek Street, which was at one time the
city's "red light" district, but now is home to trinket
shops. The boardwalk is a great location to watch
salmon, which were just starting to begin their run up the
river.
We walked the length of Creek Street, which merges with
"Married Man's Trail" at its far end. Just as we were
leaving, the crowds showed up.
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We met a Inuit logger who had a dog named "K D", which is
short for "Klondike Dog". She was 12 years old, had
some wolf in her, and weighed 115 pounds. In the 20
minutes we were sitting next to them on a bench, they must
have raked in 20 in tips stuffed under her harness.We
took a local tour out to Saxon village, which is a Tlingit
village just out of town. They have a long house that
is closed to the public, but there is a park in the front of
the longhouse that houses several totems... some of them
quite old and historic.
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We stopped by a shop where a Tlingit elder was teaching
younger men the art of totem carving. This shop carves
totems on commission, much like the carvers of old.It was
very interesting to watch him work... while answering
questions from those of us visiting the shop.
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All to early, we had to leave Ketchikan to head down to
Victoria.As we were sailing, we went to a towel folding
demonstration, where we were shown how the cool animals we
saw at night on our beds were created.
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The day ended with another AWESOME sunset.The next day,
we went to the "Disembarkation Seminar", where they ended
with a salute to the crew. The various folks who
helped us during our trip came on stage... including Honky
Dory, the waiter in the Lido Restaurant who seemed to always
remember everyone's name.
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From there, we played another game of Chess (we ended with a
record of 2-0-1).
During the game, we managed to notice another whale.
After the game, we sat and watched the scenery, and
before too long, we were pulling into Victoria.
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The weather was awesome.We took a bus tour of the city,
and then went to Butchart Gardens
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Once the home of the Butcharts, who owned a limestone
quarry, and the concrete factory it supplied, the gardens
now are an extension of the owner's wife's passion for
flowers.Still owned and managed by the family, the
gardens have been expanded over the years to encompass the
quarry and grounds of the plant.
Privately owned, the Gardens are home to an amphitheater,
on
which a band that played an odd mix of music (sort of a
blending of country, pop, and folksong, all in the same
song).
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The flowers were incredible!The smells in the quiet air
of the evening really made you want to stay there MUCH
longer than we had time for!
The blooms were so colorful and so large... it was
amazing!
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Literally miles of walkway snake through the gardens... set
up in a mix of English influence with a local Northwest
flair to its design... it was quite spectacular.
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On the way back to the ship, the Parliament building was
out in all its glory.This is one place that's not very
far away from us... we'll be back here sooner rather than
later... I'm sure of it.
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Our arrival in Seattle was, once again, hailed with GREAT
weather...We signed up for "Express Disembarkation", where
you carry your own bags off the boat. We surprised that
there wasn't a lot of other passengers with us.
After we left the ship, we noticed the piles of food and
water staged to be brought on board for the next passengers.
We were whisked through customs, and with one last look,
we got into Gar (parked right outside the terminal), and
drove home.
What a great vacation! Now we need some rest to
recover from it... :-)
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